Used Car Buying Guide

How to read a car's MOT history

Most people check whether it passed or failed. That's the least useful thing it tells you.

You can check any UK car's full MOT history for free, right now, on GOV.UK. All you need is the registration number. It takes thirty seconds.

Most people check whether the MOT is current and move on. That's the least useful thing the history tells you.

What the MOT history actually shows is a pattern of ownership — and that pattern is almost certainly repeated in the servicing, the tyres, the brakes, and everything else you can't see from the listing.

Here's how to read it properly.

Step one

Where to find it

Go to gov.uk/check-mot-history. Enter the registration. You'll see every MOT test since 2005 — the date, the result, the mileage recorded at each test, and every advisory and failure reason.

That's up to twenty years of a car's life, laid out in front of you, for free. Use it before you travel anywhere.

Read this first

The mileage column

Before you look at anything else, run your eye down the mileage at each test. It should go up. Every year, without exception, the mileage should be higher than the year before.

A drop in recorded mileage between two tests is physically impossible under normal use. If you see one, the odometer has been tampered with. This is called clocking. It is illegal. Walk away.

Also check the most recent MOT mileage against what the listing claims. If the seller says 62,000 miles but the last MOT recorded 68,000 — you have your answer before you've spoken to anyone.

Check for gaps too. A missing year could mean the car was SORNed and off the road — fine. It could also mean it was driven without a valid MOT. Ask the seller to account for any gaps.

And check whether the MOT was done on time. A test that happened weeks or months after the certificate expired means the car was driven illegally. Not catastrophic on its own, but it tells you something about how this owner treats their legal obligations.

The useful part

Advisories — the portrait of an owner

A pass is not the same as a clean bill of health. An MOT pass means the car met the minimum legal standard on the day it was tested. Advisories are the things the tester flagged as wearing or deteriorating — not bad enough to fail today, but heading that way.

This is where the picture of an owner emerges. Not just whether they maintained the car — but how they maintained it.

Consumable advisories
Tyres, brake pads, wiper blades, bulbs. These wear out and need replacing — that's normal. A single advisory on worn front tyres means nothing. The same advisory on worn front tyres appearing three years in a row means an owner who does the minimum to pass the test and no more. That is the owner you are inheriting. Their habits transfer with the car.
Structural advisories
Corrosion on the sills, the subframe, the wheel arches. These are not consumables. They do not get better. They get worse. Repeated corrosion advisories on structural areas can affect roadworthiness and are expensive to fix properly. They are also easy to hide with underseal for the purposes of passing a test.
Suspension and steering advisories
Play in track rod ends, worn bushes, loose components — these are safety items. A single advisory at high mileage is not unusual. The same advisory deferred for three consecutive years is an owner who has been putting off work that matters.
Emissions advisories
Suggests an engine running outside normal parameters. Could be a sensor, could be something more significant. Worth asking what was done about it — and whether there's a receipt to prove it.
Failure patterns

What did it fail on?

A first-time fail is not unusual and not automatically a red flag. What matters is what it failed on.

Lights, wipers, number plate bulbs — owner who doesn't check their car between tests. Low maintenance culture.

Brakes at or below minimum — owner who runs things until they stop working. The same approach probably applied to everything else they couldn't see.

Structural corrosion as a failure reason — serious. This means the corrosion was bad enough that a tester couldn't pass it. Whatever was done to get it through after that, the underlying problem was significant.

Multiple failures across different systems — a car that needed a lot of work to reach the legal minimum. Budget accordingly, or move on.

More than one test in a year

More than one MOT in a twelve month period means the car failed first time and was retested. Check what it failed on. One retest for a minor item — fine. Multiple retests, or a retest for something significant — worth understanding the full picture before you travel.

What the pattern tells you

A car with a clean, consistent MOT history — steady mileage, light non-recurring advisories, first-time passes — is a car that has been looked after. It doesn't guarantee there are no problems. It does tell you this owner cared.

A car with recurring advisories on the same items, failures on basic maintenance, gaps in the record, and mileage that doesn't quite add up — that car is telling you something. Listen to it before you travel, before you view, before you fall in love with the colour.

The MOT history is free. It is there. Read it.

What the MOT history cannot tell you

The MOT checks the car on a specific day. It does not record every problem the car has ever had. It does not show finance, write-off status, or whether the car has been stolen. It does not tell you anything about the seller.

The MOT history is the start of the picture, not the whole of it. Run the free check on the registration before you travel — MOT status, mileage, and the basics — before you commit to viewing.

MOT glossary

What does that actually mean?

MOT certificates are written for testers, not buyers. Here's what the common advisory terms mean in plain English — and whether you should be worried.

Ball joint — ⚠️ ask questions
Connects the wheel to the suspension. Think of it like a hip socket — it allows the wheel to move up and down and turn left and right. When it wears, you get play where there shouldn't be any. Advisory means it's getting worn. Minor if caught early, serious if ignored — at worst the wheel can separate from the car. Ask when it was last replaced and whether there's a receipt.
Track rod end — ⚠️ ask questions
Part of the steering. Connects the steering rack to the wheel. Wear here means the car won't steer as precisely as it should and the steering wheel may feel vague. Advisory means it's wearing — it's a safety item and needs replacing. Relatively common, not cheap to ignore.
Anti-roll bar link — 🟡 minor, price it in
Connects the anti-roll bar to the suspension. Wear causes a knocking noise over bumps and affects how the car corners. Advisory means it's worn or loose. Common, relatively cheap to fix — typically £50–100 per side. Not dangerous at advisory stage but worth factoring into your offer.
Coil spring — 🔴 serious
The main spring in the suspension that absorbs bumps. A cracked or broken coil spring is an immediate fail — the car cannot be driven. Advisory means it's cracked or corroded but not yet broken. This one needs attention soon. If it appears as a failure, the car legally cannot be on the road until fixed.
Wishbone / suspension arm — ⚠️ ask questions
A structural suspension component that locates the wheel. Wear in the bushes (rubber mounts) is common and cheap to fix. Cracks or corrosion to the arm itself are more serious. Advisory on bushes — minor. Advisory on the arm itself — ask for more detail.
Hub bearing / wheel bearing — ⚠️ ask questions
The bearing that allows the wheel to spin. Wear causes a rumbling or droning noise, usually at speed. Advisory means it's developing play or noise. Left too long it becomes a safety issue — the wheel can seize or lock. Ask if it's been looked at since the advisory.
Brake disc worn / scored — 🟡 price it in
The disc that the brake pads clamp onto. Scoring means grooves have been worn into the surface. Minimum thickness means it's getting thin. Advisory means it still passes but needs replacing soon. Budget £150–350 per axle for discs and pads together.
Brake caliper — ⚠️ ask questions
The component that squeezes the brake pads against the disc. A seizing caliper causes uneven braking — the car pulls to one side under braking. Advisory means it's starting to stick. A known issue that gets worse if ignored. Ask what's been done since the advisory.
Tyre tread / wear — 🟡 price it in
The legal minimum tread depth is 1.6mm across the central three-quarters of the tyre. Advisory means it's approaching that limit. Budget £50–150 per tyre. The pattern matters more than the single advisory — if it appears every year, the owner runs tyres to the wire. That tells you something.
CV joint / CV boot — ⚠️ ask questions
The CV joint transfers power from the engine to the wheel while allowing the wheel to turn and move. It's protected by a rubber boot. A split boot advisory means the boot has cracked and grease is escaping — the joint will fail soon if not fixed. A CV joint advisory means it's already worn. Relatively common on higher mileage cars. Ask what was done.
Sill corrosion — 🔴 serious
The sills are the metal strips running along the bottom of the car between the front and rear wheels. They are structural — they hold the car together in a side impact and support the floor. Advisory means rust is forming. Recurring advisory means it's been ignored. Serious structural corrosion can fail an MOT and is expensive to repair properly. Don't just look — crouch down and look underneath.
Subframe corrosion — 🔴 serious
The subframe is a structural chassis component that the engine, suspension, and steering are mounted to. Corrosion here is serious. It is expensive to repair and affects the safety of the entire car. A recurring advisory on subframe corrosion is a significant red flag.
Exhaust emissions — 🟡 ask what was done
The car's exhaust output is outside the acceptable range. Often caused by a faulty sensor (lambda sensor or EGR valve on diesels) — relatively cheap to fix. Can also indicate engine issues. Advisory means it's borderline. Ask what was investigated.
Steering rack — 🔴 serious
The steering rack converts the movement of the steering wheel into movement of the wheels. Play or leaks in the steering rack mean imprecise steering. Advisory means it's developing a problem. A failing steering rack is a significant repair — ask what was done and get it checked by a mechanic before buying.
Shock absorber — ⚠️ ask questions
Absorbs bumps and keeps the tyre in contact with the road. A worn shock absorber means the car bounces and handles poorly. Advisory means it's leaking or losing effectiveness. Important for safety and tyre wear. Ask when it was last replaced.

Have you Legit checked it?

Before the viewing. Before the test drive. Before the bank transfer. Run the free check on the registration first.